How to Install a Range Hood Over Your Stovetop

Installing a range hood is one of those projects that looks straightforward until you're halfway through and realize the ducting doesn't quite reach where you need it. A working hood removes cooking smoke, steam, and odors before they settle into your kitchen—and it keeps your cabinets from getting coated in grease. The difference between a sloppy installation and a tight one is mainly patience with measurements and not forcing anything. You're essentially fastening a metal box to your wall, running metal pipe to the roof or outside wall, and sealing it so air moves the direction you want it to go. If your kitchen currently has an old hood, you're replacing; if you're starting fresh, you need to think about ducting before you buy the hood itself. The hood itself is just the final piece.

1. Kill the Power First. Kill the power to the hood circuit at your breaker box. Locate and label any electrical wires running to the existing hood. Most hoods have a mounting bracket secured with bolts to the wall or underside of a cabinet. Remove these bolts. If the hood is connected to ductwork, loosen the clamp connecting the hood outlet to the duct pipe and disconnect it. Carefully lower the hood away from the wall and disconnect any electrical plugs or wire nuts. Set it aside. If ductwork is stubborn, work the connection side-to-side gently until it loosens.
2. Mark Before You Drill. Hold the new range hood up to the wall at the correct height (typically 24 to 30 inches above the cooking surface, depending on the hood design and your stovetop type). Most hoods have pre-drilled mounting holes on the sides or back of the unit. Use a level to ensure the hood sits perfectly horizontal. Mark the wall through the mounting holes with a pencil. Step back and verify that the hood is centered over the stovetop and sits at the right height. If the hood will mount to a cabinet, measure from the inside surface of that cabinet instead.
3. Anchor Like Your Dinner Depends. For drywall without studs, install heavy-duty toggle bolts or expanding anchors rated for at least 50 pounds per anchor. Drill holes at your marked points using a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor diameter. For studs, use lag bolts or standard wood screws. Insert anchors into drywall holes and tighten them until snug—don't over-tighten, as that can strip the anchor. If mounting to a cabinet, use wood screws that bite into the solid wood backing. Have a helper steady the hood as you work; these units are heavy and awkward.
4. Secure It Solid. Have your helper position the hood at the marked height while you insert bolts or screws through the mounting holes. Hand-tighten all fasteners first so the hood sits evenly, then tighten fully with a wrench or drill in a cross pattern (like tightening wheel lugs) to distribute pressure evenly. The hood should not rock or shift. Double-check that it's level from side to side and front to back.
5. Route Air Outside. Position the flexible or rigid duct pipe so it connects smoothly from the hood outlet to your exterior duct opening or roof penetration. If transitioning from one duct size to another, use a proper reducer fitting—never just force a mismatched pipe into place. Slide the duct pipe over the hood outlet and secure it with a stainless steel hose clamp, tightened firmly with a screwdriver. If the duct runs horizontally through a cabinet or wall, ensure it slopes slightly downward toward the outlet (at least 1/4 inch per foot) to prevent condensation from pooling inside the pipe.
6. Seal Every Seam. If using rigid ductwork, all seams must be sealed with aluminum foil tape or mastic sealant rated for duct work. Wrap the tape around seams with overlap and press firmly. This keeps air from leaking out through gaps and prevents pressure loss. If the ductwork passes through an unconditioned space like an attic or exterior wall, wrap it with fiberglass insulation to prevent condensation and heat loss. Secure the insulation with foil tape as well.
7. Cap It Outside. If you're venting through the roof, install a roof penetration kit and secure the duct to the underside with a hose clamp. Seal around the roof flashing with roofing cement or caulk rated for your climate. If venting through an exterior wall, install a wall cap with a damper that prevents outside air from blowing back into your kitchen when the hood is off. The damper should open easily with the force of the exhaust air but close when the fan stops.
8. Wire It Safe. If the new hood uses the same circuit and plug as the old one, simply plug it in. If it requires hardwired connection, have a licensed electrician do this work—range hood circuits must be properly gauged and protected. If you're confident in basic wiring, turn off the breaker, connect the black wire to the live terminal, white to neutral, and green or bare copper to ground using wire nuts, then wrap each connection with electrical tape. Never skip the ground wire. Reinstall any junction box cover plates.
9. Verify It Works. Restore power to the circuit at the breaker. Turn on the hood at low speed and hold a piece of paper or tissue near the hood intake—it should be pulled toward the hood with noticeable force. Hold your hand near the exterior damper or roof cap opening and feel for air being expelled. If you feel little to no airflow, check that the damper isn't stuck, that ductwork isn't pinched or crushed, and that any filters are installed correctly. Listen for unusual rattling or whistling, which suggests loose connections or air leaks.
10. Install the Filter. Most range hoods use either a baffle filter (dishwasher-safe metal) or a charcoal filter (for ductless/recirculating models). Slide the filter into the frame under the hood body, making sure it seats fully. Some hoods have a trim ring or facia panel that sits between the hood and the wall or cabinet—install this now according to your hood's manual, usually with small bolts or adhesive strips. This hides the gap between the hood and the mounting surface and looks finished.
11. Seal the Perimeter. Use paintable silicone caulk or 100% silicone caulk to seal any gaps between the hood trim ring and the wall or cabinet. This prevents steam and grease from leaking behind the hood and keeps insects out. Run a continuous bead along all edges, then smooth it with a wet finger or caulk tool. For wall-mounted hoods, caulk where the sides and top meet the wall. Allow caulk to cure for 24 hours before running the hood.