Fix a Leaky Faucet

Water dripping from a faucet wastes up to 3,000 gallons a year, costs you money every month, and announces itself at 3 AM when the house is quiet. The good news: faucet leaks are almost always simple mechanical failures—a worn washer, a degraded O-ring, or a spent cartridge. These are not precision repairs requiring special skills. They're straightforward part swaps that cost a few dollars and take less time than driving to a plumber's office. The key is identifying your faucet type and having the right replacement part before you start. Compression faucets use washers. Cartridge, ball, and ceramic-disc faucets use different internal mechanisms. Once you know what you're working with, the repair follows the same logic: shut off water, disassemble the handle, swap the failed part, reassemble. Done well, it stops the drip permanently and teaches you enough about your home's plumbing that the next small fix won't feel mysterious.

1. Stop the Water First. Look under the sink for two shut-off valves—one for hot, one for cold. Turn both clockwise until tight. If there are no valves under the sink, go to your main water shut-off and close it. Turn on the faucet to drain any remaining water in the lines and confirm flow has stopped.
2. Document Before You Disassemble. Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle with a flathead screwdriver. You'll find a screw underneath—remove it with a Phillips or hex wrench depending on your faucet. Lift the handle straight up and off. If it's stuck, wiggle gently while pulling upward.
3. Match Your Faucet Type. Compression faucets have a stem with a washer at the bottom. Cartridge faucets have a cylindrical cartridge. Ball faucets have a rounded cap over a ball mechanism. Ceramic-disc faucets have a wide cylinder with ceramic disks inside. Inspect the relevant part for wear, cracks, or mineral buildup—that's your culprit.
4. Extract the Culprit. For compression faucets, unscrew the stem nut with an adjustable wrench and pull out the stem to access the washer. For cartridge types, pull the cartridge straight up using pliers if needed. Ball and ceramic-disc mechanisms usually require removing a cap or dome first, then lifting out the assembly.
5. Seat the New Part. For washers, pry out the old one from the stem base and press the new washer into place—make sure it sits flat. For cartridges, slide the new one into the faucet body, aligning any tabs or notches. For ball or ceramic-disc assemblies, drop the new mechanism in and ensure it seats fully before replacing the cap.
6. Reverse Your Steps Carefully. Reverse your disassembly steps. Replace any retaining nuts or caps, then reattach the handle and secure it with the screw. Press the decorative cap back on. Hand-tighten everything first, then snug with tools—overtightening can crack plastic parts or strip threads.
7. Confirm the Drip Stops. Slowly open the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn the faucet on and off several times, checking for leaks at the handle and spout. Let it run for a minute, then shut it off and watch for drips. If water seeps from the handle base, tighten the retaining nut a quarter-turn.
8. Document Your Success. Wipe down the faucet and sink area. Keep the old parts in a bag with a note about your faucet model—useful if you need to reference part numbers later. Check under the sink for any water that may have dripped during the repair.