Replace a Cabinet Hinge

Cabinet hinges fail quietly at first. A door starts to sag. The gap widens on one side. Then one morning you open the door and it droops like a broken wing, held by a single screw and hope. Most hinges last decades, but when they go, they take the door's alignment with them. The good news: replacement is straightforward, requires no special skills, and costs almost nothing. Match the hinge type to what's already there—overlay, inset, or partial overlay—and you'll have the door hanging square again in under an hour. The trickiest part isn't the installation; it's the adjustment afterward. Modern European-style hinges have three adjustment screws that control depth, side-to-side position, and up-and-down alignment. Older barrel hinges simply bolt on and rely on precise screw placement. Either way, you're not rebuilding the cabinet—you're swapping a small mechanical part that does one job. Get the replacement right, and the door will close as cleanly as it did when the cabinet was new.

1. Support and Unscrew Safely. Open the door fully and support its weight with one hand. Use a screwdriver to remove the hinge screws from the cabinet frame first, not the door. This keeps the hinge attached to the door, making reinstallation easier. Lay the door face-down on a padded surface.
2. Match Your Hinge Type. Take a clear photo of the hinge from multiple angles. Measure the cup diameter if it's a European hinge, or the barrel length if it's a traditional butt hinge. Note the overlay measurement—how far the door overlaps the cabinet frame when closed. This determines which hinge type you need.
3. Detach the Old Hinge. Unscrew the hinge mounting plate or hinge body from the door. For European hinges, there's usually a clip or release lever that pops the hinge arm off the mounting plate—remove the whole assembly. Check the screw holes for damage or stripping.
4. Attach New Hinge Firmly. Position the new hinge in the exact same holes. For European hinges, attach the mounting plate first, then clip the hinge arm onto it. Drive screws firmly but don't overtighten—you'll strip the particleboard. Ensure the hinge sits flush and square.
5. Hang and Tack Door. Hold the door in position and align the hinge with the original holes in the cabinet frame. Drive one screw per hinge to tack it in place, then check the door's swing and alignment before driving the remaining screws. Don't fully tighten yet.
6. Fine-Tune Door Gaps. Close the door and check the gaps on all sides. For European hinges, turn the depth screw to move the door in or out, the side screw to shift it left or right, and loosen the mounting plate to adjust height. For barrel hinges, you may need to slightly reposition the frame screws. Make small adjustments and test after each one.
7. Lock Everything Down. Once the door hangs square and the gaps are even, tighten every screw firmly. Open and close the door several times under load—put some weight on it—to ensure nothing shifts. Re-check alignment and tweak if needed.
8. Run a Full Load Test. Load the cabinet with its typical contents and operate the door twenty times. Listen for rubbing, check that it closes flush, and verify the hinge doesn't squeak. Apply a drop of silicone lubricant to the hinge pin if needed.