Fix a Broken Cabinet Hinge

Cabinet hinges fail in predictable ways. The screws strip out from years of door weight and repeated opening. The hinge plate cracks from stress. The spring mechanism inside European-style hinges gives out. Whatever the failure mode, the fix follows the same sequence: remove the damage, restore solid material for the screws to bite into, and install hardware that matches your cabinet's drilling pattern. Most cabinet hinges are either European cup hinges (the concealed type with adjustment screws) or traditional barrel hinges visible from outside. Matching the replacement to what's already there matters more than buying the fanciest hinge at the store. The goal is a door that closes flush, doesn't sag, and will last another decade without the screws pulling loose again.

1. Remove Old Hardware Completely. Open the cabinet door fully and support it with your knee or a stack of books underneath. Unscrew the hinge from both the door and the cabinet frame. If screws are stripped and spinning, use a manual screwdriver with firm downward pressure, or grip the screw head with locking pliers and turn. Keep all screws even if damaged—they show you the size you need to buy.
2. Restore Solid Screw Holes. Check each screw hole. If the wood around it is crumbly or the hole is oversized, it needs filling. For minor damage, pack the hole with wooden toothpicks dipped in wood glue, let dry for an hour, then trim flush. For larger voids, use wood filler, overfill slightly, and let cure according to the package time before drilling a fresh pilot hole.
3. Buy Exact Replacement Match. Bring your old hinge to the hardware store. European hinges have specific measurements—107° or 110° opening angle, different plate sizes for frameless or face-frame cabinets. Traditional barrel hinges come in various barrel diameters and plate lengths. Buy an exact or compatible match. If you're replacing multiple hinges, buy them all from the same package to ensure consistent operation.
4. Create Clean Pilot Holes. If you filled old holes or if they're too damaged to reuse, mark new pilot hole locations with a pencil, staying within a quarter-inch of the original spots to maintain door alignment. Use a drill bit one size smaller than your screw diameter—typically 3/32" for standard hinge screws. Drill straight and stop before punching through the opposite side.
5. Mount Hinge to Door First. Place the hinge on the door in the exact position it occupied before. Drive screws by hand for the first few turns to ensure they're threading properly, then finish with a drill on low speed or a screwdriver. Don't overtighten—stop when the hinge plate sits flush and firm against the wood.
6. Secure Frame-Side Plate. Hold the door in position against the cabinet opening, or have someone support it while you work. Align the hinge's frame-side plate with its mounting location and drive the screws. European hinges have slotted holes for adjustment—start with screws centered in the slots.
7. Perfect Door Alignment. Close the door and check the gaps around it. European hinges adjust in three directions: the depth screw moves the door in and out, the side screw shifts it left and right, and repositioning the plate up or down changes height. Traditional hinges require shimming behind the plates or bending the hinge slightly for minor adjustments. Make small changes and test the door swing after each adjustment.
8. Verify Smooth Door Swing. Open and close the door twenty times, varying the speed and force. The door should move smoothly without binding, close with a soft contact, and sit flush with adjacent doors. While you have tools out, check the screws on the door's other hinges and tighten any that have loosened. A single failing hinge puts extra stress on the others.