How to Fix a Dripping Showerhead

Dripping showerheads are one of those small annoyances that feels endless. A single drop every few seconds doesn't sound like much, but it adds up to hundreds of gallons a month wasted, not to mention the psychological toll of hearing that rhythm at night. The good news is that showerhead drips are almost always fixable without calling a plumber. The problem lives in one of three places: mineral deposits clogging the spray holes, a worn rubber washer that's lost its seal, or a faulty internal valve. Start with the simplest fix—cleaning—and work your way up to replacement if needed. You'll have the water running clear again in under an hour, and you'll actually understand what went wrong instead of just guessing.

1. Listen Before You Look. Turn on the shower and let it run for 30 seconds. Then turn it off completely and wait. If water continues to drip from the showerhead itself, the problem is in the head or its cartridge. If water leaks from the connection where the showerhead arm meets the wall or from below the trim ring, the issue is in the valve body and you'll need a different approach. For now, assume the drip is coming from the showerhead itself.
2. Free the Head First. Most showerheads twist counterclockwise to unscrew. Grip the hex nut where the head connects to the arm and turn it left while holding the arm steady with your other hand. Some showerheads have a collar nut; turn that instead. If the head is press-fit (common on older fixtures), grip the head itself and pull straight down firmly. The connection should separate cleanly. If it's stuck, apply a small amount of penetrating oil and wait five minutes before trying again.
3. Let Vinegar Do the Work. Fill a plastic bag or small container with undiluted white vinegar. Submerge the showerhead completely so all the spray holes are underwater. If the head is too large to fit in a bag, use a ziplock bag or wrap the head in a wet cloth soaked in vinegar. Let it soak for 30 minutes to two hours, depending on how much buildup you see. Mineral deposits—white or tan crusty spots—will soften and begin to dissolve.
4. Scrub Away the Crust. Remove the head from the vinegar and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub the face where the spray holes are. Work in circular motions to break up any remaining mineral deposits. Pay special attention to holes that look partially clogged or white with buildup. Use a soft-bristle brush—nothing wire or aggressive that could damage the finish. Rinse the head under running water to flush out the loosened deposits.
5. Poke Through the Blockage. If any spray holes still look blocked after scrubbing, use a thin pin or sewing needle to poke straight into the hole. Push gently—don't force it or twist. The goal is to break through the mineral crust, not enlarge the hole. Back the pin out and flush the head under water again. Repeat for any holes that aren't clear.
6. Check the Hidden Seal. Look at the connection point where the head meets the arm. Some showerheads have a visible rubber washer or O-ring. If it's visible, remove it carefully with a small flathead screwdriver or your fingernail. If it looks cracked, hardened, or compressed flat, it needs replacing. Also check for a small diverter pin or valve seat inside—this is a tiny spring-loaded piece that can wear out. If the washer looks fine and there's no obvious damage, move to the next step.
7. Swap in Fresh Rubber. If the washer is cracked, flattened, or hardened, it's causing the drip. Take it to the hardware store and match it by diameter and thickness, or bring the showerhead itself. A basic rubber washer costs less than a dollar. Remove the old washer completely and install the new one in the same position, making sure it seats fully in its groove. If there's no washer visible, skip this step.
8. Screw It Back and Test. Thread the showerhead back onto the arm, turning clockwise until it's hand-tight. Don't over-tighten—snug is enough. If it's a press-fit head, align it and push straight up until you hear a click. Turn on the water and let it run for 30 seconds. Turn it off and wait. If the drip has stopped, you're done. If water still drips after 30 seconds of being off, move to the next step.
9. Swap the Inner Cartridge. Some showerheads have a replaceable cartridge or valve seat inside. If cleaning and a new washer didn't stop the drip, the internal seal has failed. Check your showerhead brand and model—most manufacturers sell cartridge kits for around ten to fifteen dollars. Remove the escutcheon (the trim ring around where the head meets the arm), unscrew or pry out the cartridge housing, and replace the old cartridge with the new one. This requires careful handling but is still a DIY-friendly task.
10. Start Fresh With New Hardware. If cleaning, a new washer, and cartridge replacement haven't stopped the drip, the showerhead itself is probably damaged beyond practical repair. A new showerhead costs fifteen to fifty dollars and takes five minutes to install. Unscrew the old head, wrap the threads with plumber's tape (two or three wraps), and thread the new head on hand-tight. This gives you a fresh start and often improves water pressure too.
11. Tape the Threads Down. Whether you're reinstalling the original head or a new one, wrap the male threads where the head connects to the arm with plumber's tape (also called PTFE tape or thread seal tape). Wrap it clockwise around the threads two or three times, stretching it slightly as you wrap. This creates a water-tight seal and also makes future removal easier. Screw the showerhead back on over the tape.